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Somethings just feel right. While we have all grown up with the shiny sleek allure of fiberglass boards there is something primal and core (there I said it) about surfing on a wooden surf craft.
Polynesian Roots: The Birth of Surfing
The origins of wooden surfboards are traced back to ancient Polynesia, particularly in Hawaii, where it was known as "he'e nalu" (wave sliding). For the Polynesians, surfing was not just a recreational activity but an integral part of their culture and spiritual life. They revered the ocean as a living entity, and surfing was seen as a way to connect with the ocean’s power. It should also be note that Japan also has a documented history of surfing waves on boards from fishing boats. The little boards were equivalent to Hawaiians Paipo belly board.
The early Hawaiians crafted their surfboards entirely from wood, particularly from sacred trees like the koa. These boards were heavy, solid, and long—ranging anywhere from 10 to 20 feet. Two popular types of boards existed:
- Alaia: Shorter, flat boards, often used by the common people, measuring between 7 to 12 feet.
- Olo: Larger, longer boards reserved for Hawaiian royalty, sometimes reaching lengths of up to 16 feet or more.
- Paipo: Small belly board used for body boarding across small hollow waves.
Crafting a surfboard in these times was a sacred process, accompanied by rituals to honor the gods and the ocean. The selection of the tree, the shaping of the board, and the final blessing were all done with care, as the board was seen as a conduit for channeling the ocean’s energy.
The Renaissance: Modern Wooden Surfboards
Below is my personal 'favorites' list of Wooded or wood adjacent (flax etc...). This is not exhaustive so please hunt down your local Swaylock
WaWa Wooden Surfboards
Verdure Surfboards NZ (Windy Welly)
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